Here is a quick and concise summary of what I have seen so far on my journey across Eastern Europe.
After leaving Istanbul Angela and I went first to Thessaloniki. Excellent city with an amazing Byzantine museum and really well preserved Roman ruins. Also got to hike up to the highest point of the city and walk along the city walls built in 392AD. As well the Greek food was the best I’ve ever had. While Mike may find it terrifying, the tzatiki was amazing. We couchsurfed with a really nice couple of University profs who lived in a suburb about a 45 minute bus ride from downtown. They cooked for us each night gave us a map of the city. We left by train to Sofia.
The train ride took 6 hours and we got in to Sofia at midnight only to have the police kick us out of the railway station while we waited for our couchsurfing host. He did show up and we stayed for three nights in Sofia. Such a shit-awful city if there ever was one. It is a strange combination of 1950s Soviet architecture and vehicles combined with unchecked modernization and environment destruction. However the first day there our host took us up Mt. Vitosh which is outside the city and is beautiful. The summit is 3238m high and they serve the best soup and tea in this little stone cabin that I have ever had.
That night him and his friend took us out to experience Sofia’s ‘famous’ night life. Apparently there was a NY Times article about it. I don’t get it. I mean, granted, I am not a fan of the clubs but even this one famous live music venue we went too right by Sofia University was just like Olivers with a band that sounded like they were from 1997. Judging by the packed house though and the music playing at the other two places we went to, the mid 90’s are very popular in Sofia.
We then took the train from Sofia to Bucharest, the entire experience was interesting to say the least and is described (with pictures) here. In Bucharest we stayed in the best hostel I’ve ever stayed in; super cheap, excellent breakfast and incredibly clean. It was called Butterfly Villa and I would recommend it without a doubt. Bucharest is a really interesting city that has done much to modernize itself without destroying the charms of the city. Certainly some of the sections of the city are run down and crappy but overall its a really interesting mix of the middle ages and 21st century.
I visited the original Palace built in 1440 and recently excavated, the Patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church’s Palace, lots of old churches, The National History Museum and the National Military Museum. As well their war memorial is set in the gorgeous park about a 30 minute walk from the city centre and puts ours to shame. Granted their country was occupied from 1916 to 1918 by the Germans so maybe they have more to remember and be bitter about. The highlight was the Parliamentary Palace which houses the Romanian Parliament and is the 2nd largest building in the world after the Pentagon. It is incredibly ornate and took 10 years to build. Our tour (which was free for students) took and hour and showed us only 5% of the entire building.
After Bucharest Angela flew home so I was on my own and headed to Transylvania. I spent three days in the Medieval town of Brasov. The first day I visited Bran Castle (Dracula’s castle) and had amazing Romanian food in a really fancy restaurant for less then $10 CND. The other two days I spent bumming around the town and taking the cable car up to Mt. Tampa which is only 978m but gives a great view of the city. Plus I went to lots of graveyards. I like graveyards and Transylvania has lots with incredibly detailed tombstones. Unfortunately despite hanging around graveyards at night I didn’t come across any undead.
My couchsurfing host in Brasov was an American girl on exchange at Brasvov. While being your standard No-Logo enthusiast her other three couchsurfing guests were really interesting. All three were from Georgia (The country) so I had a long discussion with them about the politics and history of their country. They are not big fans of Russia right now…
I left Brasov by train and got it all the way to Istanbul with a 2 hour layover in Bucharest. Took 25 hours but I had a bed in a private room all for less than 70$ CND. As soon as I hit Istanbul I got the metro to the Otogar (Bus Station which is the biggest and busiest bus station you will ever see in your life) and took the bus to my current location, the town of Eceabat. While Eceabat is a little fishing village the Gallipoli battlefields are only 10 km away. I spent yesterday exploring the battlefields and today exploring the larger town across the straits called Chanankkale. An excellent military museum in a 15th century Ottoman castle was the highlight. However eventually the weather drove me back to my hostel as it is 2 degrees with snow and the wind is blowing at about 70km/hr right now.
Tomorrow I head to Ephesus, the most well preserved Roman city in the world. It also is home to The Temple of Artemis, one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World.